Heat Guns: The Complete UK Buyer's Guide (Corded & Cordless)

Heat guns are a core tool for anyone working with cable management, cable identification, or general electrical installation, most commonly for shrinking heat-shrink sleeving, but also for paint removal, plastic forming, and a range of other trade tasks. This guide covers what a heat gun is, what it can and can't do, how to choose between corded and cordless models, and a full breakdown of the Steinel range stocked by Cablecraft.

A heat gun is a handheld tool that produces a concentrated stream of hot air. It works on the same basic principle as a hair dryer, but runs at far higher temperatures and is built for industrial and trade use rather than domestic use.

A fan draws in ambient air and forces it across a coiled heating element, typically a wire wound around a ceramic former. Passing an electrical current through the element generates heat, which the airflow picks up as it passes over it. The heated air then exits through the nozzle, producing a directed, concentrated stream of hot air rather than a diffuse one.

Heat gun output varies by model, but across the market the typical range runs from around 50°C up to 650°C (figures vary by individual model; see the Steinel range breakdown below for model-specific ranges). Most units let you control temperature either via a simple switch between two or three fixed settings, or with a thermostat or digital dial for full adjustability.

"Heat gun" and "hot air gun" are used interchangeably for the same tool. A hot air station is a different product entirely — a benchtop unit with a pencil-style hose, used for soldering components onto a circuit board.

In cable management and electrical work, shrinking heat-shrink sleeving is one of the two most common day-to-day applications for a heat gun (the other being loosening adhesives). A reflector nozzle accessory is designed specifically for this job; it wraps around the cable or length of sleeving and directs heat evenly around its full circumference, so you get consistent shrinkage without having to rotate the workpiece and without the air bubbles that uneven heating can cause.

Heat guns are effective for paint stripping. You apply a high heat setting to soften the paint, then scrape it away with a putty knife. Cablecraft's 12-piece accessory kit includes a paint-scraper attachment for this purpose.

Because older paints — particularly anything from before the 1980s — can contain lead, a respirator should always be worn when stripping paint with a heat gun.

Heat guns are also used to soften and bend plastics for forming work. As with any softening application, a lower, more controllable heat setting reduces the risk of scorching or warping the material.

Technically, a heat gun will reach temperatures high enough to melt solder — but this is not a recommended use. Heat guns are not precision tools, and using one on small soldered components is comparable to using a hammer to crack a walnut: you risk damaging everything around the joint you're actually trying to work on.

Heat guns are also used on-site for thawing frozen pipes and general drying tasks, alongside the primary applications above.

A heat gun is not a flame source, so it cannot be used to join or braze pipes, and it will not cut through materials. It is not a precision tool, so it should not be used for soldering or for any delicate, small-scale work. Heat guns are designed for industrial-scale applications — cables and larger workpieces — rather than fine detail work.

• Corded heat guns connect directly to a mains socket (or a 110V site transformer, on models that support it). They're straightforward — plug in and go — but you need power nearby.

• Cordless heat guns run on battery power. They're roughly the size of a cordless drill and lightweight, making them the better choice when you're working in a confined space or anywhere without easy access to power: a cable cupboard, for example, and want to avoid a trailing cord as a trip hazard.

Which one to buy depends on where and how you'll be using it, and the specific application — see the SKU recommendations below.

The Steinel corded (HM) range spans around 1300W–2300W depending on model. As a general rule: applications needing high heat (paint stripping) call for a model with a high maximum temperature, while precision work (adhesive removal, delicate materials) calls for a model with fine, thermostatic control rather than fixed high-only settings.

• Fixed/multi-setting models offer a small number of pre-set temperatures, selected with a switch. Simpler to operate, less flexible.

• Digital/thermostatic models allow you to dial in any temperature within the unit's range, typically shown on an LCD display. Better suited to varied work or materials that are sensitive to overheating.

See the model-by-model breakdown below for exactly which Steinel models fall into each category.

The right nozzle depends on the job:

• Reflector nozzle — wraps around a cable or length of heat-shrink sleeving and directs heat evenly around its full circumference, avoiding air bubbles and uneven shrinkage.

• 9mm reducer nozzle — narrows the airflow to a smaller, more focused point. Useful where precision matters, such as shrinking sleeving close to other wires you don't want to affect — set to a lower temperature and work carefully in this scenario.

• Surface nozzle — spreads the airflow into a flat line rather than a round stream, similar in principle to a hairdryer diffuser attachment.

• 12-piece accessory kit — includes one of each nozzle type plus additional tools such as a paint-scraper kit and welding nozzle, so you're equipped for whatever job comes up.

• Spare battery (cordless models) — worth carrying on site so you can swap and charge rather than being caught out mid-job.

A heat gun reaching up to 650°C can become a genuinely hazardous tool if used carelessly. Key safety points:

• Gloves: use heat-resistant gloves made from leather or aramid fibre. Never use nitrile gloves — they will melt on contact with the heat.

• Clothing: sleeves and clothing near the work area should be natural fibre, not fabric blends or polyester, which can melt or ignite.

• Eyes and feet: wear safety glasses and closed footwear — hot air will move debris, and you don't want hot material landing on exposed skin.

• Respiratory protection: wear a respirator when stripping paint, removing adhesives, or bending plastic, particularly given the lead risk in paints predating the 1980s.

• General handling: never point a heat gun at yourself or anyone else, never block the air inlets, and never direct it at anything flammable.

• Confined spaces: be especially careful around dust, loft insulation, wall cavities, and materials like wood or paper — these can smoulder unseen for hours before catching fire. When working in a confined space, always set the tool down somewhere it can't make contact with anything else.

Best suited to: the Steinel 1620 is the simplest option for basic day-to-day jobs (heat-shrink work, removing hot glue) where fine control isn't needed. The HM 1820 S is Cablecraft's recommended model in this range for paint stripping — it also handles de-icing, drying, shaping and soft-soldering. The HM 2320 E offers the widest range and finest control, making it the recommended choice for precision adhesive removal and delicate materials such as wood, where a thermostat prevents scorching.

Best suited to: MH1 is the most compact and lightest option, suited to light, occasional cordless work. MH3 heats to 300°C in under 5 seconds and is a straightforward two-setting tool for quick jobs. MH5 is Cablecraft's recommended model for heat-shrink sleeving in confined spaces with no power access — fast-heating, adjustable airflow, and the only cordless model currently held in stock. MH7 is the most powerful cordless model, with the highest maximum temperature and battery capacity in the range, suited to heavier site work.

• Reflector nozzle — for even, circumferential heating of cable or heat-shrink sleeving, avoiding air bubbles.

• 9mm reducer nozzle — narrows airflow for precision work, such as shrinking sleeving near other wires.

• Surface nozzle — flat-line airflow, useful where a round airstream isn't the right shape for the job.

• 12-piece accessory kit — one of each nozzle type, plus a paint-scraper kit and welding nozzle, for full job coverage.

• Spare batteries — for cordless models, worth carrying on site so a discharged battery doesn't stop work.

Heat guns are used for a range of jobs, but in cable management and electrical work the most common uses are shrinking heat-shrink sleeving and loosening adhesives. They're also used for bending plastics, thawing frozen pipes, and stripping paint.

Yes. Apply a high heat setting to soften the paint, then scrape it away with a putty knife. Cablecraft's 12-piece accessory kit includes a paint-scraper attachment for this. Use a respirator, particularly with older paint that may contain lead.

A corded heat gun has a mains cable moulded into the unit, connecting to a wall socket or, on some models, a 110V site transformer. A cordless heat gun runs on a battery instead, removing the trailing-cord trip hazard and allowing use in tight or hard-to-reach spaces without power.

The temperature will melt solder, but heat guns aren't precision tools and this isn't recommended — you risk damaging small components and everything around them.

Most heat guns run between roughly 50°C and 650°C, depending on the mode.

Yes to both. For heat-shrink sleeving, a reflector nozzle gives even heat around the full circumference of the cable. For vinyl wrap, a lower heat (around 50°C) is typically used first to stretch the film, followed by around 90–100°C to reset it — always check the specific vinyl wrap manufacturer's guidance, as this can vary by product.